Now that I’ve given somewhat of a description of the market, I can talk about more of the adventures that happen there. Every time you go to the market it is a true adventure. I never see other muzungus at the market; it is definitely intimidating, but it gets easier once you figure things out, get some local language, and know how much you should pay for things. One of the first things I bought at the market was a chitenge, which is a piece of cloth the size of a giant bath towel, in all different colours and patterns, worn most commonly as a skirt, but you can have “suits” (two-piece dresses) made out of them as well. It is the traditional piece of clothing for women here, since tops are usually t-shirts or any other regular shirt. It is worn by simply wrapping it around your waist and tucking the top corners in, and is worn over pants or a skirt. I see it a lot around the market, less so anywhere else in town, but it will be a must in the rural areas. It is also the sling with which women carry their babies on their backs, which you see everywhere.
Wearing my chitenge when I walk around town has earned me some buy-in with the locals. Since muzungus usually haunt the fancy shops and malls, those at the market and – gasp! – walking (instead of taxi) tend to stand out and draw attention. There are so many people on the street wherever you go, and basically 4 out of 5 are looking at you, with 1 or 2 of those actually calling out to you: “Hello madam!”, “Taxi?”, or “Muzungu!” When I am wearing my chitenge, the comments are usually: “Muzungu in chitenge!”, “You are looking very nice in your chitenge,”, or “You are looking like Zambian in chitenge!” If I throw a bit of Njanya (the language in Lusaka) in there – “Zicomo!” (Thanks!) – that brings on more approval. It takes the edge off of all the attention, but you still feel like a bit of a celebrity, albeit one of those celebrities that is both loved and disliked.
To buy at the market is to barter, and if you have trouble bartering, you will constantly pay too much for even the smallest items. Since things are relatively cheap here anyway, many muzungus don’t mind, and just go along with whatever the shopkeep says. However, this just perpetuates the perception that muzungus are full of money and you can charge them exorbitant prices and they will pay. The trick is to have some idea of what the regular price for the item should be, and to be prepared to walk away – i.e. don’t get your heart set on it – if the shopkeep won’t come down in price. This is where local friends or cultural informants come in, because they can tell you what you should be paying for things. Failing that, I sometimes ask the seller of one item what the price of a different item should be; they have no reason to tell me an inflated price. Mostly, getting around in the market just takes a lot of just-do-it. It is no place for the meek, that’s for sure, which can make it hard if you’ve had a long day and just want to slip in, buy what you need, and slip out.
Wearing my chitenge when I walk around town has earned me some buy-in with the locals. Since muzungus usually haunt the fancy shops and malls, those at the market and – gasp! – walking (instead of taxi) tend to stand out and draw attention. There are so many people on the street wherever you go, and basically 4 out of 5 are looking at you, with 1 or 2 of those actually calling out to you: “Hello madam!”, “Taxi?”, or “Muzungu!” When I am wearing my chitenge, the comments are usually: “Muzungu in chitenge!”, “You are looking very nice in your chitenge,”, or “You are looking like Zambian in chitenge!” If I throw a bit of Njanya (the language in Lusaka) in there – “Zicomo!” (Thanks!) – that brings on more approval. It takes the edge off of all the attention, but you still feel like a bit of a celebrity, albeit one of those celebrities that is both loved and disliked.
To buy at the market is to barter, and if you have trouble bartering, you will constantly pay too much for even the smallest items. Since things are relatively cheap here anyway, many muzungus don’t mind, and just go along with whatever the shopkeep says. However, this just perpetuates the perception that muzungus are full of money and you can charge them exorbitant prices and they will pay. The trick is to have some idea of what the regular price for the item should be, and to be prepared to walk away – i.e. don’t get your heart set on it – if the shopkeep won’t come down in price. This is where local friends or cultural informants come in, because they can tell you what you should be paying for things. Failing that, I sometimes ask the seller of one item what the price of a different item should be; they have no reason to tell me an inflated price. Mostly, getting around in the market just takes a lot of just-do-it. It is no place for the meek, that’s for sure, which can make it hard if you’ve had a long day and just want to slip in, buy what you need, and slip out.
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